London Fashion Week
This picture above represents the Central Saint Martins MA show, which proved to be an outstanding spectacle, which could only be expected from the graduates of such a prestigious school. Luke Brooks, Chloe award winner and one of tonight's joint winners presented us with a captivating collection that spelt out punk rebellion mixed with artistic expression.
When reading this article, it was interesting to know that Anne Thorbjornsen, recipient of the Armani Bursary, presented the public with flowing draped pieces with kaleidoscopic embellishments made in wood cut outs. Pinned and tucked to create unusal shapes, the clothing was loose and soft, made more fierce by wooden spear constructions used to decorate, giving us the modern warrior. Mei Lim-Cooper, recipient of L'Oreal Bursary, gave us unusual knitwear looks that appeared dismantled; old shapes taken apart to make way for the new. Layered over one another in various colours and distorted shapes the pieces resembled heavy chain mail, a ready for battle look but with a feminine edge thanks to the cream colours used and unusual forms created in order to wrap the knits around the female body.
The designer, Yong Kyun Shin gave the public a robot-esque look, using an assortment of materials and textures such as wire springs and complex ruching to create this sculptured collection that saw models wearing heavily pleated items in dark greys and blacks combined with thick velvets and exaggerated shoulders for added structure. Kenji Kawasumi focused on menswear designs for AW12 presenting box shaped jackets alongside cropped trousers in an unusual polystyrene coated knit. An example of next age fabric finishes, the designer provided foam trousers and oversized jumpers in what looked like recycled materials, emphasising the importance of the Eco message.
Estefania Cortes Harker's collection was all about the glitter. The Pringle Award winner showed his collection of slit skirts, boxy shirts and elaborate dresses in an array of glitter fabrics ranging from blue, pink, gold and silver. Art deco, abstract cut outs hung off the front of the dresses which boasted peep hole laser cut outs around the necklines too. Plastic fantastic and artistic craftsmanship are the best ways to sum up Helen Lawrence's AW12 show, as the Central Saint Martins MA graduate gave us abstract, asymmetric dresses and tops made up of patchwork felt panels fused together with what at first appeared to be rough visible stitching but after a closer look turned out to be zigzag streams of plastic black glue, giving a graphic doodle-like effect to this unique collection. Under these surreal constellations of patchwork, models donned transparent plastic culottes, bolted together with brass pins, adding a futuristic feel to Lawrence's already distinguished collection.
The designer Yifang Wan, showed his simple collection inspired by the East, with kimono style garments fastened with large wooden belts instead of sashes accentuating the waist and giving a surreal 3-D perspective of the clothing. Elegant and simple, garments included wide billowing trousers and heavy cape-like overgarments with deep slits to reveal the tailored pieces underneath. Yulia Kondranina used boning and wired structures as foundations for her tassel-fest collection. Tiered hoops were looped around the bust, waist and hips to support the tasselled drapery, which was even attached to hooded pieces to create veils that obscured the model's face. All pieces appeared in either black and white creating stark contrasts of the dark and the serene in this inspiring show. Sculptural and feminine, Yulia used wire supports even around trouser legs to create beautiful twists of tassels that snake around the female body.
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